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Much is made of the differences between wines of the “New World” and those of the “Old World”. I have heard them described amusingly as the Dogs & Cats of wine, respectively. Please understand upfront that these are generalizations and do not apply in every case.
First of all, Old World refers principally to the wines of the traditional wine regions of Europe. New World refers to everywhere else but principally the US, Australia, Chile, Argentina, New Zealand and South Africa.
So much for geography. What do the terms mean relative to wine styles? As simply as possible, and ignoring many complicating elements, the terms refer to generalized differences in the structure of the wines and their aromas and it applies rather equally to red and white wines.
Structure refers to the “building blocks” that make a wine what it is. The principal components of structure are tannin, acidity, fruit and alcohol. Aroma refers primarily to varietal and fruit smells. The term bouquet refers to those more complex smells that build and evolve in a wine as a result of the fermentation and aging process. For example oak, vanilla and clove are all smells that develop from aging in oak barrels.
New World wines are the Dogs! Think of how your favorite Lab or Setter or whatever lavishes you with attention getting behavior and just the joy of your presence. There is no mistaking the upfront, tail-wagging affection. It is all right there for you to enjoy right now. So too is a New World wine. The warm rich fruit flavors and aromas blast you in the nose and on the palate and are ready to savor while still very young.
Old World wines are the Cats! Just like so many felines, these wines are often elusive, restrained, subtle and hesitant to show their best side. No bounding for joy here! But given time and careful attention they show a complex and intricate personality.
In a more “clinical” sense, a New World wine tends to get its personality because the climates are often so much warmer and the fruit is consistently riper. This means higher sugars (higher potential alcohol) and lower acidity. The wines are thus typically more “fruit forward”. That is to say they often display more fruit smells (varietal) and tastes than non-fruit smells and tastes. Red wines may be “jammier” and richer on the palate due largely to this riper fruit at harvest. White wines will also tend to be fruitier and even seem sweeter due to the ripe fruit and higher alcohol levels. You have probably heard the terms “fruit bomb” and “hedonistic”. These tend to be applied rather liberally to more New World wines than Old.
For the same climactic reasons, Old World wines typically display less fruit. Many, though certainly not all, Old World wine regions have cooler and/or more inconsistent climates that result in fruit maturing more slowly. Optimum harvest periods will likely see the fruit at lower sugar and higher acid levels. The forward aromas are more likely to be oriented toward flowers, spices and earthier components, with fruit playing a more understated role. The wines will be lower in alcohol. An Old World wine will likely be more subtle in all the aromas and tastes it displays. It may also tend to be more complex – that is to say there may be more “layers” of different types of aromas and bouquet displayed on successive tastes.
There are obvious exceptions to saying the New World is warmer. For example, Oregon, New Zealand and Tasmania have climates that are generally quite cool and are far closer to Burgundy than Napa. Pinot Noir from these regions is often thought to be very Burgundian in style – that is they are often earthier with more restrained fruit than Pinot Noir from many California appellations.
There are also many viticultural and winemaking practices and philosophies that can act to significantly reduce the distinctions between Old and New World. Trellising, pruning, maceration periods, oak versus stainless tanks – all have their impacts. Future articles will deal with some of these. For now just let the dog lick your face and the cat brush against you. Have a Napa Pinot Noir and a red Burgundy and think about it.
Courtesy of Vance Booher, Mountain View Inn
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